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Water Heater Installation


Eemax Electric Tankless Water Heaters

How to install a DIY Water Heater with an easy do it yourself video:
First turn the water and the power off (if applicable) and drain the water heater, hooking a garden hose to bib at the bottom and directing the hose outside. Now disconnect the supply line going in and the supply line going out, often just unscrewing the connections. Wrestle the empty tank away and out, you are ready for the placement of your new water heater. The top of the new unit will have a hot and cold nipple connections. With the new flex lines screwed in place on top your now going to connect the flex lines to the supply blue line (cold) coming in and the exit red (hot) going out into the house. Fittings will vary so be sure to match them up properly. Often understanding the metals will save problems later so do not mix the metals IE galvanized or steel to brass or copper! If necessary soldering may be required unless you use Sharkbite or Pex fittings, they are considered slip or mechanical fittings and more DIYable. Once all the connections have been made and tested good, the pressure from the water supply is too much so open at least one hot faucet the furthest from your new source and slowly turn water back on until all the water displaces the air and spitting as well as sputtering has stopped. Note: Water heaters potentially can explode and cause significant damage, injury, or death if certain safety devices are not installed. When the water temperature exceeds 100 °C (212 °F), the water will remain a liquid inside the tank, but when the pressure is released as the water comes out the tap the water will boil, potentially inflicting steam burns. Water above about 88°C (190 °F) will cause burns on contact. A safety device called a temperature and pressure relief (T&P or TPR) valve, is normally fitted on the top of the water heater to dump water if the temperature or pressure becomes too high. Most plumbing codes (UPC) require that a discharge pipe be connected to the valve to direct the flow of discharged hot water to a drain, typically a nearby floor drain, or outside the living space. Some building codes will allow for the discharge pipe to terminate in the garage. Check again all your connections new and old throughout the dwelling for any leaks. Always a good idea to be safe than sorry and good job BTW.

Water heating is a thermodynamic process using an energy source to heat water above its initial temperature. Typical domestic uses of hot water are for cooking,cleaning, bathing, and space heating. In industry, both hot water and water heated to steam have many uses.

Domestically, water is traditionally heated in vessels known as do it yourself water heaters. These metal vessels heat a batch of water but do not produce a continual supply of heated water at a preset temperature. The temperature will vary based on the consumption rate of hot water, use more and the water becomes cooler.

Appliances for providing a more-or-less constant supply of hot water are variously known as water heaters, boilers, heat exchangers, calorifiers, or geysers depending on whether they are heating potable or non-potable water, in domestic or industrial use, their energy source, and in which part of the world they are found. In domestic installations, potable water heated for uses other than space heating is sometimes known as domestic hot water (DHW).

In many countries the most common energy sources for heating water are fossil fuels: natural gas, liquefied petroleum gas, oil, or sometimes solid fuels. These fuels may be consumed directly or by the use of electricity (which may derive from any of the above fuels or from nuclear or renewable sources). Alternative energy such as solar energy, heat pumps, hot water heat recycling, and sometimes geothermal heating, may also be used as available, usually in combination with backup systems supplied by gas, oil or electricity.





How to install a DIY Solar Water Heater with an easy do it yourself video:

Installing a Tankless Water heater system:
If replacing an old hot water heater with a new tankless hot water heater, using the same location will minimize extra steps (vent pipe, water pipe and gas line extensions). If installing for new construction, find a location near an exterior wall to run a vent pipe. A galvanized vent pipe must run from the tankless hot water heater to an outside location and must be vented downward to prevent elements such as rain from entering the pipe. These vent pipes will range in diameter, so go to installation instruction for details. If an existing vent pipe does not meet the proper dimensions of the new tankless hot water heater, then upgrade to the new size and proper fittings. Note: Some models require a separate pipe for fresh air intake. These models will call for additional thimbles and thimble holes.

If replacing an old hot water heater with a new tankless hot water heater, using the same location will minimize extra steps (vent pipe, water pipe and gas line extensions). If installing for new construction, find a location near an exterior wall to run a vent pipe. A vent pipe must run from the tankless hot water heater to an outside location and must be vented downward to prevent elements such as rain water from entering the pipe (Images 1 and 2). Vent pipes can range in diameter. If an existing vent pipe does not meet the proper dimensions of the new tankless hot water heater, a new pipe will need to be run. Note: Some models require a separate pipe for fresh air intake. These models will call for additional thimbles and thimble holes.

Cutting new Vent Pipe Holes:

To install a new vent pipe, measure the interior and exterior walls for thimble holes. These holes will cut easiest using a sawzall. Test thimble but DO NOT install thimble until vents have been installed and angles have been checked. Once thimbles have been installed, slide the vent pipe into thimble securely. Always be certain to consult the directions of the specific tank model for local and national code requirements.

Mounting your New Tankless Water Heater:
With the new vent piping in place and secured be exact in aligning tank lines up with the vent pipe(s). Note: When installing in a concrete or brick basement you will need to attach 2×4s to a joist (a wooden support beam that runs along the ceiling), in order to attach a backboard. Measure the backboard to the precise dimensions and attach to the 2×4s. Line up the tankless hot water heater with the vent pipe(s) and fastened it into place.

Attaching the Water Pipes:

New water pipes must be run to supply the tankless hot water heater with water. When attaching new copper water pipes, the ends of each pipe must be cleaned with an emery cloth. Next apply soldering flux to the end of the pipe and slide the pipe into the fitting. Apply the heating torch to the fitting with the inner flame tip for about 10 seconds. Once the metal is hot enough it is time to apply the solder. Pex or SharkBite fittings require no soldering when another option is available. Touch the solder to the joint and work your way around the fitting on both sides until the joint fits. Note: A separate isolation valve kit allows for easier maintenance and a relief valve prevents pressure build-up. Note: Tankless hot water heaters can be electric or gas. For gas tankless hot water heaters, a T valve must be installed to an existing gas line. Once a T valve is installed, a corrugated stainless steel gas line must be run from the valve to the tankless hot water heater. A gas shut off valve must be attached to the line before connecting to the sediment trap (the short section of pipe running downward on the bottom of the tank). Once properly attached, use a sensitive gas sniffer to detect any gas leaks.